I heard this as I walked past a group of students one morning at Almond College. Munu means ‘white person’ in Luo, the local dialect of Lira district (Luo is a language composed of three other local dialects). I hear the word ‘munu’ often. Sometimes from the students at Almond, but most often from the local children who follow us on our morning walk to Almond. These little ones see us coming, and yell “Munu! Hi!” and then wave with so much enthusiasm, I think their arm will fall off. ‘Hi’ and ‘bye’ are the only English words they know. “Ibuto aber!”, we say to them. Because this is one of the only few Luo words that we know (it means ‘good morning’). The local children smile and laugh in response. They run close and try to touch our white skin, and then laugh again, and run away. But not very far. “Mu-nu! Mu-nu!”. I take a few steps towards them, and they squeal and laugh and run away again. We have given them all nicknames, because we cannot communicate with
them any more than this in order to learn their names. One we call “Pink Shoes’, because of his little pink flip flops. He sticks his tongue out when he is concentrating on something, and his denim shorts hang around his knees, making it hard for him to run as fast as the others. His older brother often has a rubber tire that he rolls while running. The littlest one is called ‘Good Motor’. Her motor skills seem extremely developed for a toddler her size. She always wears a little dress and lifts it up to cover her face when she sees us, exposing her belly and her naked bum. She’ll peak out from behind the dress, yell ‘Hi!!”, wave, and then hide again.
When the students at Almond College call me “munu”, it sometimes sounds derogatory. I know that it’s not. But people in Uganda, I have noticed, use little expression in their speech, and the monotony in their voice is hard to interpret. If roles were reversed, and there was a Ugandan that passed by a group of white students, and they greeted him or her with the equivalent of ‘munu’ in the English language, it would most likely be interpreted (and perhaps even directed) as being diminishing, or offensive. I understand that this perspective from which I come has led to my interpretation of ‘good morning, munu’ as being something negative. However, I quickly remember that here, in Uganda, or at least in Lira, and at Almond College specifically, white people seem to be respected, and even revered for the most part. I don’t remember any other time that I have explicitly experienced racism, and this seems to be a reverse kind of racism. With that said, however, I often wonder how we are perceived by some of the Almond students, and by the community of Lira in general. In most cases, we are welcomed. The first day we arrived at Almond College, the students were assembled on the lawn of the school, waiting for us. We walked into the grounds, and the students all stood and applauded, and came up to greet us, and shake our hand. “You are welcome”, they said. I felt overwhelmed, and swallowed a number of times to hold back tears. Because who was I? And what had I done, to deserve such a powerful and grateful welcome? During the days of being at the school, and volunteering, either working on various projects around the school, or with the students and staff directly, this genuine and heart-felt welcoming was present and pervasive in my interactions. However, the odd time, I would lock eyes with a student, and smile. And would receive a cold glare, and a hardness in the eyes, as a response. And then I would remember. I would remember what this country has been through. I would remember what Northern Uganda has been through in the past few years. I would wonder what those cold hard eyes might have seen in the past, things that I probably cannot imagine. And I would wonder what some of these people have been through. What did they think of us “munus” coming into their community, into their lives, to provide help and support in whatever way we knew how to? Were they grateful? Or resentful? Resentful of what we had, with our hats and our sunglasses, and our water bottles and our cameras. Resentful of what they perceived to be our ‘free’ education, and our ‘wealth’. Resentful of what they didn’t have. Or perhaps they were resentful of nothing, and that idea is really just me pushing my assumptions onto them.
I would look around me, everyday, at the students and at the school, and I would feel amazement at their community and spirit. I DO feel amazement. These students are open, and kind. They are respectful. Selfless. Curious. They are always asking questions about what it’s like to live in Canada. They ask questions about what winter looks like in Canada, about our religion, about our homes. I remember explaining to one student that we do not have chickens running around in Toronto like they do in Lira. “There are no chickens in Canada?” he asked. They want to learn. Not just about math, or agriculture, or physics. But about the world around them. About themselves. Just like any one of us “munus” who is here, volunteering our time. Why did we come to Africa? Why did we come to Uganda? I am happy to be here. I feel privileged to be welcomed into the community of Lira, and into Almond College. I feel special, that for just a couple of weeks, I was able to be a part of them. And I feel changed. I know that I’m not the sam
e person that walked into Almond College on that first day. Of course, mostly, I am the same person. But there’s a small part that has been touched by my experiences here, by the people, and most importantly, by these students. I admire their inner strength, courage, and resilience; although, I recognize that for them, they’re just living. I have learned much from these students. About the world around them, and about myself. Thank you, students of Almond College. Thank you for opening your home and your hearts to me.
Lina